Where Do the Cables Go?

You mount the TV, step back, and there it is. A bundle of black cables hanging down the wall to the power point, undoing the entire clean look you were after.

This is the part of the job that gets thought about last and should be thought about first.

Why this gets left until last

Mounting the TV feels like the job. Cables feel like a detail.

But cable concealment is often the part that takes the longest, and it is the part that determines whether the finished result looks intentional or improvised. It also affects where the TV can go, because the route the cables take has to work with the wall construction.

How many cables are we actually talking about

More than people expect.

There is power. Then there is at least one HDMI cable for each connected device, so a set-top box, a console, a streaming device and a soundbar is already four. Then possibly an Ethernet cable if the TV is hardwired, and speaker cable if there is surround sound.

It adds up quickly, and the plan needs to account for what you might add later as well as what you have now. Running one extra cable while the wall is open costs almost nothing. Running it afterwards means doing the whole job again.

Option one: in-wall concealment

The cleanest result. Cables run inside the wall from behind the TV to an outlet lower down, usually behind the cabinet.

In a plasterboard wall over timber framing this is relatively straightforward, because the cavity provides a route. Two small openings are made, cables are run between them, and both are finished with proper wall plates.

In solid brick or masonry there is no cavity, so a channel has to be chased into the wall and made good afterwards. It is a more involved job with patching and painting, but the finished result is the same.

One important point: mains power cable cannot simply be run inside a wall by anyone. Getting power to the TV position properly means a licensed electrician either relocating or adding a power point. The common workaround is a purpose-made recessed outlet kit designed for the job. Anything that involves running an ordinary extension lead inside a wall cavity is not acceptable.

Option two: surface trunking

A slim channel fixed to the wall surface, holding the cables, painted to match the wall.

This is the practical answer where in-wall work is not possible or not wanted. Rendered masonry, rentals, heritage properties, apartments where you cannot open up the walls, or situations where you would rather avoid patching and repainting.

Done well and painted properly it is far less noticeable than people expect and dramatically better than loose cables. Done badly it looks like a compromise. The difference is entirely in the finish.

Option three: relocating the power point

Sometimes the simplest answer is to have a power point installed directly behind the TV.

That removes the power cable from view entirely and leaves only the signal cables to deal with, which are thinner and easier to route. If devices are also going to sit behind the screen or in a recess, this can solve most of the problem in one step.

This is electrical work and requires a licensed electrician.

The thing to decide before mounting day

Where the equipment is going to live.

If everything sits in a cabinet directly below the TV, the cable run is short and the job is simple. If equipment is going in a different part of the room, or in a cupboard, the run is longer and needs planning.

Decide this before the bracket goes on the wall, because it determines the cable route, the number of cables, and where the openings need to be. Changing your mind afterwards means opening the wall again.

If a renovation is happening, run everything then. It is the cheapest and least disruptive time by a wide margin, and it is worth running more than you currently need.

More on TV wall mounting and home theatre installation.

If the system includes multiple speakers, planning the cable routes for surround sound at the same stage can also avoid having to reopen finished walls later.

All installation work carries a 12 month labour warranty.

Written by Yariv, Owner and Lead Installer at AVsion. 14 years installing AV, WiFi and security systems across Sydney’s eastern suburbs.

Frequently asked questions

Can you mount a TV without the cables showing?

Yes. The cleanest method is running cables inside the wall from behind the screen to an outlet lower down, which works readily in plasterboard walls and requires chasing a channel in solid masonry. Where in-wall work is not possible, slim surface trunking painted to match the wall gives a tidy result. Which suits depends on the wall construction and how much patching you are comfortable with.

Can power cables be run inside a wall behind a TV?

Not by just anyone, and not with an ordinary extension lead. Mains power work requires a licensed electrician, either to relocate or add a power point at the TV position, or to install a purpose-made recessed outlet kit designed for the purpose. Signal cables such as HDMI and Ethernet are a separate matter and can be run in the wall alongside a properly installed power solution.

How many cables does a wall mounted TV need?

More than most people expect. There is power, plus one HDMI cable for each connected device, so a set-top box, console, streaming device and soundbar already means four. Add an Ethernet cable if the TV is hardwired and speaker cable if there is surround sound. It is worth running spare capacity while the wall is open, because adding one later means repeating the whole job.

Is surface trunking a good way to hide TV cables?

It is a practical option where in-wall work is not possible or not wanted, such as rendered masonry, rentals, heritage properties or apartments. A slim channel fixed to the wall and painted to match is far less noticeable than people expect and dramatically better than loose cables. The result depends almost entirely on the quality of the finish and the painting.

Should I hide TV cables during a renovation?

Yes, and it is by far the best time. While walls are open, running cable is quick and inexpensive, and there is no patching or repainting involved. It is also the moment to run more cable than you currently need, since adding capacity later means opening the wall again. Deciding TV positions and equipment locations before the walls close is one of the more valuable renovation decisions.

Where should my TV equipment be located?

Directly below the TV in a cabinet is simplest, because the cable run is short and the concealment straightforward. Equipment placed elsewhere in the room, or hidden in a cupboard, needs longer cable runs and more planning. This decision should be made before the bracket goes on the wall, because it determines the cable route and where wall openings need to be.