People think of TV mounting as a bracket job. It is really a wall job, and the bracket comes afterwards.
The same TV on the same bracket in two different houses can be a forty minute job or a considerably more involved one, purely because of what is behind the plaster.
Timber stud walls
Plasterboard over timber framing. Common in newer builds and in extensions.
The plasterboard itself holds nothing. The load goes into the timber studs behind it, which sit at regular spacings. That spacing has to line up with the bracket, and the TV has to end up where you want it rather than where the studs happen to be.
Where the studs do not line up with the ideal position, the usual answer is a backing board fixed across multiple studs, with the bracket mounted to that. It spreads the load properly and gives you freedom on positioning.
Cable concealment is generally easiest in this type of wall, because the cavity behind the plasterboard gives you somewhere to run things.
Solid brick and masonry
Very common in older homes.
Brick is exceptionally strong and will carry almost any TV without complaint. The fixings go into the brick itself rather than the mortar joints, because brick holds far better than mortar does.
The trade-off is that masonry is unforgiving. Drilling requires a hammer drill and the correct masonry anchors, and every hole is permanent. There is no adjusting a few centimetres afterwards without leaving evidence.
Concealing cables is also harder, because there is no cavity. Options include chasing a channel into the wall and making good, running cable through the wall to a point behind the unit below, or using a surface conduit or trunking finished to match the wall.
The same solid masonry construction can also affect other technology around the house. Our guide to WiFi in older brick homes explains why these walls create a very different problem for wireless coverage.
Double brick with a cavity
Two masonry leaves with a gap between them, common in older homes here.
The important thing is that fixings need to be anchored into the inner leaf properly. A fixing that only grips the surface of the inner leaf, or that bridges into the cavity without proper anchoring, is not carrying the load the way it needs to.
The cavity does occasionally help with cable routing, but it is not something to assume, because cavities can contain insulation, ties, services and debris.
Steel stud walls
Increasingly common in apartments and newer commercial-style construction, and the one that catches people out most often.
Steel studs are thin, light gauge and not designed to carry a heavy hanging load the way timber is. Screwing a heavy TV bracket directly into a steel stud with standard screws is a genuine failure risk.
Steel stud walls need specific fixings designed for the purpose, or a backing arrangement that spreads the load across several studs. It is entirely doable, it just cannot be done with the fixings that came in the bracket box.
If you live in an apartment built in the last twenty years, there is a reasonable chance this is your wall.
The walls that need extra thought
- Fibro and older cement sheet. Brittle, and older sheeting may contain asbestos, which must not be drilled without proper assessment.
- Rendered walls. The render hides what is underneath, so the substrate has to be identified before drilling.
- Feature and floating walls. Often built as a facade over a cavity with nothing structural behind them.
- Walls with services. Power, water and gas run inside walls, and it is worth knowing where before drilling.
Why the wall is checked before anything else
Everything downstream depends on this. The bracket type, the fixings, whether cables can be hidden in the wall or need another route, how long the job takes, and whether the TV can go exactly where you want it.
It is why any decent installer looks at the wall before quoting rather than after. It is also why the bracket bundled with a TV is often the wrong one for the actual wall it is going on.
More on TV wall mounting.
Wall construction also matters when planning a wider home theatre installation, because screen position, equipment, speakers and cable routes all need to work with the structure of the room.
The same assessment is important for projector and screen installation, particularly where a screen or projector needs secure structural fixing rather than attachment to the surface material alone.
All installation work carries a 12 month labour warranty.
Written by Yariv, Owner and Lead Installer at AVsion. 14 years installing AV, WiFi and security systems across Sydney’s eastern suburbs.
Frequently asked questions
Can you mount a TV on a brick wall?
Yes, and brick is one of the strongest walls to mount to. Fixings go into the brick itself rather than the mortar joints, because brick holds considerably better. Drilling requires a hammer drill and correct masonry anchors, and every hole is permanent, so positioning needs to be right first time. Cable concealment is harder than in a stud wall because there is no cavity to run cable through.
Can you mount a TV on a steel stud wall?
Yes, but not with standard fixings. Steel studs are thin, light gauge and not designed to carry a heavy hanging load the way timber studs are, so screwing a bracket directly into one with the screws supplied in the box is a genuine failure risk. Steel stud walls need purpose-designed fixings or a backing arrangement spreading the load across several studs.
How do you mount a TV if the studs are in the wrong place?
The usual answer is a backing board fixed across several studs, with the bracket mounted to that. It spreads the load correctly and lets the TV sit exactly where you want it rather than where the framing happens to be. This is a common situation in stud walls, since stud spacing rarely lines up with the ideal viewing position and bracket dimensions.
Can cables be hidden inside a brick wall?
It is possible but more involved than in a stud wall, because there is no cavity. Options include chasing a channel into the wall and making good afterwards, running cable through the wall to a point behind a unit below, or using surface trunking finished to match. Which approach suits depends on the wall, the finish and how much disruption you are comfortable with.
How do I know what type of wall I have?
Tapping the wall gives a rough indication, since plasterboard sounds hollow and masonry does not, but rendered walls in particular can hide what is underneath. A stud finder helps identify framing but does not always distinguish steel from timber. Because the wall determines the bracket, the fixings and the cable route, it is checked properly on site before any quote or work.
Are there walls a TV should not be mounted on?
Some need particular care. Older fibro and cement sheet is brittle and may contain asbestos, which must not be drilled without proper assessment. Feature and floating walls are often a facade over a cavity with nothing structural behind. Walls carrying power, water or gas services need those services located first. None of these rule out mounting, but they change how the job is approached.
